In conversation with … Devender Kumar, Beverage Manager at The Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong

As The Aubrey presents a new cocktail menu inspired by the philosophy of Kaizen, caught up with the top bartender and Japanese Shochu ambassador

November 8th 2024


Words by Aude Camus
 
As Asia continues its meteoric rise on the global bar scene, Hong Kong stands out by adding its own unique ingredients to the mix. Leading this charge are top bartenders and award-winning bars that keep the excitement alive with refined concepts and new menus, while fresh newcomers add to the buzz. To find one of these trailblazers, join me at The Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. From the lobby, we’ll take the elevator to the 25th floor, where The Aubrey – created in partnership with Maximal Concepts hospitality group – offers a refined Japanese izakaya experience paired with an exceptional cocktail list.

Ranked 10th on Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2024  list, The Aubrey’s reputation for exceptional cocktails continues to thrive with the introduction of its Volume 3 Menu: Kaizen. his new menu embodies the Japanese concept of continuous improvement, a philosophy deeply rooted in refining existing practices to reach new heights. Assistant General Manager and Beverage Manager Devender Kumar has spearheaded this ambitious project, infusing it with a blend of traditional Japanese influences and contemporary flair. I caught up him to discuss the creative process behind the Kaizen menu, his views on Hong Kong’s evolving cocktail scene, and his role as a Shochu ambassador.



The Japanese philosophy of kaizen
 
“Kaizen is all about refining and elevating what already exists,” Devender shares. “We wanted to apply this to our cocktail program by making subtle yet impactful changes to classic drinks.” From staples like the Old Fashioned and Negroni to cocktails with Asian roots such as the Bamboo and Jungle Bird, each drink has been given a thoughtful twist with Japanese elements like shochu and awamori.

A Day in Yokohama: Bianco Vermouth, Fino Sherry, Coconut, Elderflower, Oregano
Devender’s meticulous approach to improvement underscores the dedication behind each creation. “We believe that even the smallest details can elevate a guest’s experience,” he adds. This focus on refinement ensures that each cocktail isn’t just a drink but a journey through flavours and craftsmanship.
 
 
 
The star of the show: Shochu
 
Shochu, a traditional Japanese spirit, holds centre stage in The Aubrey’s new creations. But unlike whisky or gin, shochu isn’t commonly the star ingredient in cocktails. Devender’s passion for this spirit started on a trip to Kyushu in 2019. “At first, I wasn’t drawn to it, especially since my previous bar program was so different,” he admits. “But when I came to The Aubrey, we wanted a spirit that would set us apart. Shochu felt like uncharted territory in the cocktail scene outside Japan.”
 
Shochu’s diverse flavours, ranging from earthy barley notes to the clean profile of rice, fascinated Devender. “It’s not like vodka, which is neutral,” he explains. “Every shochu has its unique profile depending on its ingredients and production methods. Building a program around it was a passion project for me.”
 
Crafting the Kaizen menu took six months of meticulous experimentation. The process wasn’t without its surprises. One standout moment involved creating the cocktail Akemi, a savoury take on the classic Red Eye. “At one point, we’d tested so many iterations that we forgot to document the final recipe,” Devender laughs. “I had to recreate it from memory, tweaking it until we arrived at something even better. That’s kaizen in action.”
 
 
 
Balancing tradition and new experiences

The Aubrey’s Kaizen menu isn’t just about bold flavours; it also considers varying alcohol strengths. Low-ABV cocktails like A Day in Yokohama bring balance to the menu, ensuring guests have options for all preferences and moods. “Offering a range of alcohol levels is essential,” Devender notes. “It allows everyone to find a drink that suits their moment, whether they’re starting the evening or savouring a late-night sip.”
 
Beyond the balance of flavours and alcohol strengths, the menu reflects a deep respect for Japanese cultural heritage while embracing the dynamic, cosmopolitan nature of Hong Kong. “While we draw inspiration from Japanese culture—particularly in the spirits and ingredients we use—we also modernize and adapt these elements for a more global audience,” Devender shares. The cocktails embody the precision and craftsmanship synonymous with Japanese mixology but are crafted with an international palate in mind. This thoughtful reinterpretation strikes a harmonious chord, appealing to The Aubrey’s diverse clientele.
 
Devender’s approach is clear: “The idea isn’t to strictly replicate Japanese traditions but to reinterpret them with a modern, Western twist.” In a city as multifaceted as Hong Kong, where patrons come from all walks of life, The Aubrey strives to create a space where everyone feels welcomed. “Hospitality is about offering something meaningful and memorable to a wide range of guests while staying true to the essence of what we believe in,” he adds. The Kaizen menu seamlessly merges heritage with innovation, inviting guests to experience Japanese spirit in a way that’s familiar yet refreshingly distinct.
 
 
 
Looking ahead: the future of cocktails in Hong Kong
 
Reflecting on the evolution of Hong Kong’s cocktail culture over the last decade, Devender highlights the city’s rapid transformation into a global destination for innovative drinking experiences. “The demand and respect for the F&B industry have grown immensely, and the bar scene is no exception,” he shares. “There’s a constant appetite for new concepts and fresh ideas, and people get genuinely excited about unique experiences.”
 
He notes that Hong Kong’s position as a global hub, especially in industries like finance and banking, fuels the demand for vibrant dining and drinking venues. “Ten years ago, Hong Kong’s gastronomy and nightlife scene wasn’t what it is today. Now, it’s catching up to cities like New York and London,” Devender explains. The continuous emergence of new concepts by F&B groups keeps the scene lively and diverse, ensuring there’s always something novel to explore.
 
One of the defining aspects of Hong Kong is its compact nature. “Many fantastic bars are within walking distance, especially in Central, which allows you to hop from one bar to another and enjoy different atmospheres in a single night,” Devender says. This accessibility has contributed to the city’s dynamic cocktail culture, which he believes will keep evolving in exciting ways.
 

 




 

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