Madame Travels - A week in Cape Town

All photos in this article has been taken by our Director, Aude, unless stated otherwise
This article was first published in March 2018 and updated in February 2019

by Aude

If you haven’t heard, Cape Town is the city to visit those days!

 
And so on …
 
Ok I don’t always trust those rankings but let me tell you one thing, it has taken me only 4 days in 2017 to fall deeply in love w/ Cape Town and

 
I can’t really describe it, you have to experience it, but Cape Town is both super chill and extremely busy with so many exciting things happening.
 
Over my last stay, I have been posting hundreds of pictures and stories on Instagram and always got the same comments "Didn't know cape Town was such a beauty" and “your pictures are so beautiful” but you know what? That’s was such an easy job! You don’t even have to use filters or bother w/ angles or whatever, Cape Town is just amazingly beautiful!
 
 

 
Flying to amazing Cape Town from Hong Kong isn't exactly a a quick thing to do but things have become way easier with Cathay Pacific launching 3 weekly direct flights in November 2018.  

 
Alternatively, Qatar Airways and Emirates operates daily flights from Hong Kong to Doha or Dubai and then to Cape Town. Cheaper options are also available such as Air China or Singapore Airlines.
 
The best time to hit Cape Town? Chinese New Year definitely!
First of all because unlike Asian destinations, Cape Town won’t be overcrowded. Then because you definitely wanna use those CNY Public Holidays to treat yourself to a little extra time in Cape Town. And last but not least because January/February is summer in South Africa but not the humid and sticky kind we know in Hong Kong, a glorious hot but fresh at the same time summer with amazing blue sky!


 

 
Cape Town is quite a big city where you can have it all:  a beautiful villa on the beach, a cute apartment in a trendy neighborhood or a hotel room in the business area.
 
 
Looking to treat yourself: Rent a villa in Campsbay

If you are here on holidays I cannot recommend enough staying in Camps Bay! This neighborhood nestled between Table Mountain, Lion’s Head and the ocean is my fav place on earth. You’ll be treated to amazing scenery, trendy coffee shops, seafood restaurants and the beautiful white sand beach. Plus, it won’t take more than a 10 min Uber* ride to reach Cape Town city center.
 
* there are so many Uber around town that you won’t wait more than 3 min before grabbing one. Plus, it is usually cheaper than taxi and you don’t have to bother negotiate the price. Definitely go for Uber!
 
Luxury Retreats offers around 40 villas and apartments for rental in Camps Bay and here are some of my fav:

Looking to extra treat yourself: stay at The 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa  

If you are looking for an haven of peace dramatically located above the Atlantic Ocean and flanked by the majestic Twelve Apostoles and Table Mountain, this lovingly retro chic hotel is the place to be. You'll enjoy free-flowing Champagne at breakfast, perfect service and top notch facilities. 

On a budget:
If you are on a budget, staying in the city center would be a more attractive option w/ accommodation ranging from guest houses to Airbnb rental.
Madame’s tips: our fav area in town are trendy De Waterkant and very chill Kloofstreet.


 

 
Ok, there are so many things to do in Cape Town that I won’t be able to cover it all but here are a few ideas that will definitely keep you busy for your fist trip there.
 


GO ON A HIKE

Pretty much like Hong Kong, Cape Town is home of beautiful natural scenery and pretty famous for its hiking paths. Two iconic hikes that I would definitely recommend hitting:

 
Lion’s Head is a pretty easy one and you’ll be rewarded with a beautiful view from the top.
 

Madame’s tips: most people start Lion’s Head from the bottom and just go up the hill but there is a slightly longer option which is kicking off the hike from Signal Hill to enjoy a less busy path but also incredible views of the city on one side and of the deep blue ocean on the other side. 

The best time to hit Lion’s Head if you ask me? Right before sunset. Start hiking roughly 1.30 hour before the sun goes down so that you get to enjoy this from the top! 
 

Table Mountain is a much harder one. You also have the option to reach the top by cable car but if you feel pretty good and are in a good shape I would definitely recommend hiking your way up to the top. Unlike Signal Hill and Lion’s Head, the hike in itself won’t really offer you any view as you basically just hike straight up to the top (which is tough, I won't be lying to you) but the view at the top is worth it a million times! Did you know that Table Mountain was one of the 7 Wonders of Nature?
When hiking it myself I saw a few families w/ very young children and also a lot of tourists hiking it with non-sport shoes. Great mistake if you ask me!

Madame’s tips: if you are visiting Cape Town during Summer time (which is January/February) remember that it gets hot very quickly. I would recommend hitting the beginning of the hike around 8 am so that you can reach the top by 10-10.30 am before it gets unbearably hot and crowded.
 


WANDER THE STREETS OF CAPE TOWN
 
I got a few fav neighborhoods in Cape Town that are definitely worth a little visit. 

 

Bookap with its colorful and so Instagram friendly houses.

De Waterkant with its trendy coffee shops, beautiful lifestyle shops and very peaceful atmosphere.

Madame’s tips: if you are looking for a place to eat in this area and are in the mood for some serious Italian food, Osteria Tarantino just serves the yummiest homemade pasta dishes!

 
Kloofstreet or V&A Waterfront for some shopping. District 6 for its museum to learn more about the history of Apartheid in Cape Town. The Company’s Garden to enjoy a bit of nature and fresh air in the middle of the city.
 


SPEND A DAY IN THE WINE VALLEY

 
Also known as Franschhoek (literally “The French neighborhood” because Cape Town's Wine Valley was first established by French Huguenot escaping religious persecutions in France in the 17th) Cape Town's Wine Valley is home of amazingly beautiful and photogenic vineyards and definitely worth a full day trip.
Leaving Cape Town early morning (around 9 am) it will take you roughly 1H30 to hit your first vineyard.

Madame’s tips: you definitely wanna book a driver for that day! You’ll be enjoying wine tasting after wine tasting and wouldn’t be wise to drive after that (just to give you a hint of how much wine to expect, this year I have been visited 3 vineyards on my day trip to Franschhoek and tasted no less than 25 wines …). We have been booking Sean Casey as our driver for this tour 3 years in a row and I can definitely recommend him.
 
One thing to know when visiting the wine valley is that some vineyards are very famous among tourists but that does not mean they produce the best wine nor does it mean that it’s a must visiting those. My top 3 vineyards to visit are Delaire Graff Estate, Mont Rochelle and Mullineux & Leeu. 

Delaire Graff is a true jewel and a heaven of peace and luxury. Treat yourself to a wine tasting on the terrace overlooking the vineyards and enjoyed a 2h break from all the hustle and bustle from the world.

Madame’s tips: two wine tasting options are available with one being more premium than the other (and therefore more expensive). If you are more than one I definitely recommend having both for example 1 premium and 1 regular for two, this way you’ll get to discover more wines and save a little bit of money. The service is incredibly nice and they will perfectly tailor the wine pairing for you.
 
And if you really feel like indulging during your stay why not booking yourself a night in one of the estate's (part of the Relais & Châteaux repertoire) lodge ? 

Mont Rochelle is also quite a gem! A Virgin Limited Edition property and therefore part of Sir Richard Branson’s collection of stunning retreats and venues across the world, Mont Rochelle will treat you to incredible views of the surrounding mountains and lands. Definitely recommend stopping by for at least a wine tasting on the terrace or even better a one night stopover in one of their amazing 26 rooms and suites. 

(RE)DISCOVER OUR FULL ARTICLE ON MONT ROCHELLE

 

Mullineux & Leeu is no less beautiful than Delaire Graff but maybe a little less posh and definitely worth a visit too.
Madame’s tips: make sure to book your wine tasting before going (can easily be done by email) otherwise they might not be able to welcome you for a proper tasting.
 
A visit to the cute and historic town of Stellenbosch can also definitely be added to that day.
 


GO TO THE MOST SOUTH-EASTERN CORNER OF THE AFRICAN CONTINENT: CAPE OF GOOD HOPE & CAPE POINT

That’s again pretty much a full day adventure but also a must. You’ll need a car for that day so either rent one (easy and cheap option) or again go for a driver. 

Leave Cape Town early (I know that’s a lot of early wake-ups for a holidays but believe me you’ll thank me for this tip) and head of to Chapman’s Peak drive, a beautiful scenic drive that will have you stop every 100m to take pictures. If you have followed my advice and woke-up early enough, you’ll be lucky to be ahead tourist buses and have the road and scenic stops just for yourself. 

Then make a stop at Boulders Beach, home of hundreds of cute teenie tiny African penguins. That’s a short stop and won’t take you long but always cute to see.
 
And then straight to Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. First pay a visit to Cape Point and enjoy beautiful ocean views.

Madame’s tips: there is a nice restaurant over there where you cannot make bookings on the terrace but if you make it before 12.30 you’ll be pretty sure to have a table outside and will enjoy your grilled seafood with a beautiful view.
 
And now off to Cape of Good Hope, just 2km from there. Ok let’s be honest, it’s not the most beautiful place you will see during the day (but still very beautiful) and its basically only rocks overlooking the ocean but would be a pity not to just see it and take a picture there. 

 

Instead of taking the same road you took in the morning back to Cape Town, rather loop back and make a stop at Muizenberg famous for its kilometers long beach, a surfer paradise, with multicolor little beach bungalows.
 


CHILL AND SPEND AN AFTERNOON ON THE BEACH
 
My fav beach to spend an afternoon napping on the sand is Llandudno, just a 10 min ride from Camps Bay if this is where you are staying. Just like any other beach in Cape Town, you can rent umbrellas and beach chairs from beach vendors.
 
Watch out, the water is freezing! Even in the middle of summer it feels like putting your feet in a bucket of ice. I have been trying my best but could not go deeper that mid-leg and got cramps the second I was putting my toes in the water!
 


AND MUCH MORE
There so much more to do in Cape Town, among which:

…  

 

 
You know me, food comes first! I wouldn’t say that I am over excited with South African Gastronomy but the dining scene in Cape Town is definitely exciting!
 
Madame’s tips: restaurants in Cape Town get fully booked quite quickly so if you wanna treat yourself to dinner in a trendy yummy place make sure to book something like 3 weeks before to make sure you’ll have a table. All bookings can easily be made online.
 
I have tested all the following addresses and can definitely recommend paying them a visit. As much as I would have loved too, I was unfortunately not able to visit all the restaurants of Cape Town (which means I have to go back, don’t you think?) and you can check Eat Out for more restaurants options.
 
The following list is ranged from the less expensive restaurant to the most expensive one.
 


MZOLI
You have to go to Mzoli! But you’ll go there more for the experience than the food. Located in Gugulethu’s Township (but you have nothing to fear, the place is quite famous among tourists and locals) this place has grown for being a simple butcher shop to one of the most popular party place in Cape Town. Don’t expect anything fancy, basically a butcher shop where you buy meat before they grilled it for you on the barbecues (Braai) at the back of the shop. Once your meat ready, you get to eat it in the open-air restaurant where music is playing and people are dancing.
More than a restaurant, Mzoli is an experience and this is one you don’t wanna miss.
 
Madame’s tips: they do provide the meat but that’s pretty much it so do bring paper plates, cutlery and even sides if you don’t feel like eating meat and meat only (but the meat over there, especially the sausages, is super good).
 


FORK
If you fancy going out on Long Street (the LKF of Cape Town but with colonial style houses instead of skyscrapers) and experienced a Friday or Saturday night in Cape Town, Fork is a great place to have dinner beforehand! They serve tapas style dishes including some local specialties such as the kudu steak.
 


BUNGALOW
Located on Clifton beach, Bungalow is the ultimate beach restaurant. Like most of the beach side places in Cape Town they serve a mix of fresh seafood, grilled fishes and sushis but they serve it with a beautiful view plus they have a beach bed area where you can spend the afternoon treating yourself to food and cocktails while waiting for the sunset.
 


LA PETITE FERME

Paying tribute to the South African Braai tradition, ingredients at Riverine Rabbit are cooked over hot coals. All ingredients are locally sourced, seasonal and sustainable and I found the menu to be tasty and pretty inventive. 

One last thing, Chef Ash Heeger has won herself a pretty good reputation, working for the two most acclaimed South African restaurants then training in Michelin-starred restaurants all over the world before starring in Netflix's show The Final Table. 

This one is for those looking to indulge. La Colombe (previously part of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants ranking) is (so far) the best restaurant I've experience in Cape Town! I had a great memory of it after eating there in 2018 and my second time there in February 2019 was even tastier than what i could remember.
 
Madame’s tips: there are a few table outside and you definitely wanna ask for one if the weather allows! You’ll be treated to soft breeze and view over the kitchen's garden. I would definitely recommend going there for lunch to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the place by day but also because once you are done and if don’t feel like going home yet (after such a lovely lunch you would definitely wanna keep indulging) you are just a 5 min ride from Klein Constantia Wine Estate where they make the iconic Constantia dessert wine.
 
Another nice thing about restaurants in Cape Town is that, unlike what you can experience in Hong Kong, service is always on point!
 
A few local specialties you should definitely try and why not bring back home:

- Constantia Wine

- Amarula: a local liquor made of cream and Marula fruits (I must confess a little addiction to that yummy thing)

- Biltong: dried, cured meats … super easy to snack on

- Rooibos tea

 
 

 
Is Cape Town dangerous?
That’s a question I got asked a lot and it’s true that before going there for the first time I was a little bit afraid. You know what? There is nothing to worry about! Still must be careful, Cape Town is not Hong Kong (but is there any other city in the world as safe as Hong Kong?) but not a single moment have I felt in danger. Never, ever.
 
One thing to know is that there is kind of a parallel economy in the city. For example, for all the touristy places you’ll be visiting there will always be someone helping you to find a space where to park your car and looking after it while you are gone. Surprising at first but once you know it you just accept it and give that person a tip. That’s how some of the inhabitants make money in a country where unfortunately poverty and unemployment rate are still way too high.
 
The Water crisis – as of March 2018
If you read the International news, you might have head that Cape Town is currently facing a deep water crisis. The region is facing water shortage and despite water saving measures, the water level is critically low and the city is making plan to face Day Zero when the municipal city water supply will be turned off.
You can easily find more information surfing the web. But this is something that you must know and be aware of before flying to Cape Town as it might affect your conditions of stay. Indeed, water saving measures apply to everyone so you might find for example than you cannot wash hand with water in a restaurant bathroom (but there would be sanitizer instead) or even sometimes that you cannot use the flush, if you are staying in a hotel they will have removed the bath plug, restaurants will ask you to keep the same cutlery over the entire meal (which means less things to wash) and so on ….
But you know what, you’ll easily get used to it! I actually found it quite an enlightening experience to realize how much water we are using per day and how much we can save. Just to give you an idea, Capetonians are asked to use no more than 50L a day. One washroom flush is 10L … I let you imagine how much water we are using per day, you’ll easily see than 50L a day is not an easy deal.

I really had an enormous crush on Cape Town so if you have any question about this amazing city please feel free to drop me an email at contact@hongkongmadame.com