Marmo Bistro: Effortlessly French, effortlessly good

 Words by Aude Camus
 
There’s a running joke that French expats in Hong Kong can go years living on Hong Kong Island without crossing Victoria Harbour. And while some of us might prove the cliché true, others - myself included - happily make the trip (especially when it’s for food!). Now, I’ve found yet another reason to do it more often: Marmo Bistro. Rosewood Hong Kong’s new French bistro feels like a slice of Paris - effortlessly chic, warmly familiar, and filled with the kind of dishes that make you want to linger over a second (or third) glass of wine.
 
Chef Giovanni Galeota delivers all the French classics, but with the kind of finesse that makes them unforgettable. Case in point: the Thon à la Niçoise (HKD 268) - a fresh, vibrant take on the Riviera staple, where silky tuna akami crudo meets punchy seasoning. I’ll admit, a Niçoise salad isn’t usually my go-to in a restaurant, but this one? I’d order it again in a heartbeat.
 

Then there’s the Gratinée à l'Oignon (HKD 168), a rich (like really rich – it’s the kind of dish you’ll be happy to share), beefy French onion soup smothered in bubbling Gruyère and Comté. Hard to find in Hong Kong, even harder to find done this well (even in France) - each spoonful is pure, nostalgic comfort. Bonus points for the fact that they serve it in bowls identical to the ones my parents have at home in Paris.
 

The Bouillabaisse (HKD 688 – serves two) is another rare treat, brimming with fragrant seafood goodness and served the traditional way - with a slice of sourdough slathered in rouille (because let’s be real, half the joy is mopping up every last drop). Meanwhile, the Fricassée de Poulet (HKD 388) - tender spring chicken in a creamy morel mushroom sauce - tastes like childhood Sundays in France. And the Pommes Allumettes (HKD 128)? Hand-cut fries that are impossibly crisp and golden. Let’s just say, I could have eaten a whole kilo of them and not regretted a single bite.
 

And for dessert? It had to be the Tarte Tropézienne (HKD 128) - a light, dreamy brioche cake filled with diplomat cream. Spending my summers in St Tropez, I have a soft spot for this pastry, and Marmo Bistro’s version hits all the right notes. Thought the Crème Brulée (HKD 108) is also an excellent choice.
 
More than just a restaurant, Marmo Bistro is a love letter to everything I adore about French cuisine - home-style cooking, regional specialities, a dash of nostalgia, and plenty of conviviality. It’s the kind of place where you sit down for dinner and end up staying for hours, and that, to me, is the mark of a true bistro. Not gonna lie, I overindulged - so much so that I had to take a long walk home because there was no way my overly full stomach was letting me sleep. But that’s the mark of a truly great meal - the kind you can’t stop eating, even when you’re stuffed, and don’t regret a single bite.