Words by Aude Camus
I know, I know. Magistracy Dining Room opened in late 2022, and I only just made it there. A disgrace, really. Because if I had known how much I would love it, I wouldn’t have waited this long.
Housed in the beautifully restored former Central Magistracy, this spot oozes history and old-school grandeur. Think dark wood panelling, plush leather banquettes, chandeliers dripping with elegance – you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped into a members-only London club, where one might sip a single malt while discussing the latest aristocratic scandal.
But beyond the setting, it was the food that won me over. Now, as a Frenchwoman, I’ll admit we can be… let’s say highly sceptical about British cuisine. But if all British food was this good, I’d happily book myself a weekend in the English countryside just for the meals.
The new seasonal menu
I know, I know. Magistracy Dining Room opened in late 2022, and I only just made it there. A disgrace, really. Because if I had known how much I would love it, I wouldn’t have waited this long.
Housed in the beautifully restored former Central Magistracy, this spot oozes history and old-school grandeur. Think dark wood panelling, plush leather banquettes, chandeliers dripping with elegance – you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped into a members-only London club, where one might sip a single malt while discussing the latest aristocratic scandal.
But beyond the setting, it was the food that won me over. Now, as a Frenchwoman, I’ll admit we can be… let’s say highly sceptical about British cuisine. But if all British food was this good, I’d happily book myself a weekend in the English countryside just for the meals.
The new seasonal menu
I was invited to try Magistracy Dining Room’s new seasonal menu, curated by chef Alyn Williams, and let’s just say – I’m gonna have it again. Here’s what stood out:
Brighton Beach Dressed Crab – A fresh, delicate crab salad served on a homemade crumpet. Light, tangy, and perfectly balanced, with just the right amount of richness from the brown crab mayo. Crab on toast? Say no more, I’m in.
Pumpkin & Parmesan Bisque with Truffle Soldiers – Pure, velvety comfort in a bowl. Rich yet refined, with deep, nutty notes from the parmesan and that irresistible truffle-drenched toast on the side. It tasted like childhood—but, you know, elevated.
The Magistracy Sausage Roll – Forget everything you thought you knew about sausage rolls. This one is next level—buttery, flaky pastry enveloping an indulgent mix of pork belly and offal, served with a spiced apple ketchup that ties it all together beautifully. Decadent? Oh yes. Worth it? Absolutely.
Shepherd’s Pie – A British staple done to perfection. Slow-braised lamb shanks, deeply flavourful, topped with golden, crispy mashed potatoes. Rustic yet refined, and comfort food at its very best.
Grilled Kabocha Squash & Yeasty Grains – For the veggie lovers (or, honestly, anyone with taste). The grilled squash is beautifully caramelised, and the creamy farro with puffed grains adds layers of texture and umami. A surprising highlight.
Sticky Toffee Pudding – The ultimate showstopper. Soft, sticky, and drenched in just the right amount of toffee sauce. I dare anyone to resist ordering this. (Spoiler: you won’t.)
Beyond the Food: Impeccable service & a chef who cares
Brighton Beach Dressed Crab – A fresh, delicate crab salad served on a homemade crumpet. Light, tangy, and perfectly balanced, with just the right amount of richness from the brown crab mayo. Crab on toast? Say no more, I’m in.
Pumpkin & Parmesan Bisque with Truffle Soldiers – Pure, velvety comfort in a bowl. Rich yet refined, with deep, nutty notes from the parmesan and that irresistible truffle-drenched toast on the side. It tasted like childhood—but, you know, elevated.
The Magistracy Sausage Roll – Forget everything you thought you knew about sausage rolls. This one is next level—buttery, flaky pastry enveloping an indulgent mix of pork belly and offal, served with a spiced apple ketchup that ties it all together beautifully. Decadent? Oh yes. Worth it? Absolutely.
Shepherd’s Pie – A British staple done to perfection. Slow-braised lamb shanks, deeply flavourful, topped with golden, crispy mashed potatoes. Rustic yet refined, and comfort food at its very best.
Grilled Kabocha Squash & Yeasty Grains – For the veggie lovers (or, honestly, anyone with taste). The grilled squash is beautifully caramelised, and the creamy farro with puffed grains adds layers of texture and umami. A surprising highlight.
Sticky Toffee Pudding – The ultimate showstopper. Soft, sticky, and drenched in just the right amount of toffee sauce. I dare anyone to resist ordering this. (Spoiler: you won’t.)
Beyond the Food: Impeccable service & a chef who cares
As much as the food wowed me, it was the service that left a lasting impression. It’s been a while since I’ve experienced hospitality this genuinely warm and polished in a non-Michelin-starred restaurant. The team strikes the perfect balance between attentiveness and discretion—always there when you need them, never overbearing.
And then there’s Chef Alyn Williams, who took the time to introduce a few dishes at the table. Friendly, passionate, and refreshingly down-to-earth, he brings an energy that’s as inviting as the space itself.
The verdict?
And then there’s Chef Alyn Williams, who took the time to introduce a few dishes at the table. Friendly, passionate, and refreshingly down-to-earth, he brings an energy that’s as inviting as the space itself.
The verdict?
If Magistracy Dining Room has been sitting on your “must-try” list for too long, go now. If it wasn’t on your list just add it. Between the stunning setting, the elevated yet comforting take on British cuisine, and the flawless service, this is a restaurant that truly delivers.
Did I walk out dreaming of a weekend in the English countryside? Yes.
Did I also leave wondering if I might have underestimated British food all these years? Maybe.
Would I come back? In a heartbeat.
Magistracy Dining Room
www.themagistracyhongkong.com
Tai Kwun, Central
Did I walk out dreaming of a weekend in the English countryside? Yes.
Did I also leave wondering if I might have underestimated British food all these years? Maybe.
Would I come back? In a heartbeat.
Magistracy Dining Room
www.themagistracyhongkong.com
Tai Kwun, Central
This article is based on a complimentary lunch hosted by Magistracy Dining Room. No money has been paid to publish this review which is entirely based on the genuine opinion of its author.
