par Aude Camus
May is always an exciting time of the year for French people living in Hong Kong. Between Le French May and its culinary leg, Le French GourMay, but also the French Chamber’s Gala Dinner, there’s definitely something chic about being French in May (chicer than usual I mean). Speaking of the French Chamber’s Gala Dinner, did you know that every year, a different Michelin star chef was flying all the way from France just to cook an exceptional diner menu for the 600 guests? But this year edition was even more special than usual, welcoming for the very first time a female chef and not just any chef: Stéphanie Le Quellec, winner of French Top Chef tv show in 2011 and only French female chef awarded with two Michelin stars. I had to meet her during her short stay in Hong Kong!
May is always an exciting time of the year for French people living in Hong Kong. Between Le French May and its culinary leg, Le French GourMay, but also the French Chamber’s Gala Dinner, there’s definitely something chic about being French in May (chicer than usual I mean). Speaking of the French Chamber’s Gala Dinner, did you know that every year, a different Michelin star chef was flying all the way from France just to cook an exceptional diner menu for the 600 guests? But this year edition was even more special than usual, welcoming for the very first time a female chef and not just any chef: Stéphanie Le Quellec, winner of French Top Chef tv show in 2011 and only French female chef awarded with two Michelin stars. I had to meet her during her short stay in Hong Kong!
So here I was, few days ago, sharing coffee with the Chef at the Shangri-La where she stayed as a guest chef for 4 days. A coffee break filled with yummy insights, exciting news and personal memories.
Hi Stéphanie. Thanks so much for taking the time to meet me. Can you tell me a bit more about yourself? Your background? How did you start cooking?
Hi Stéphanie. Thanks so much for taking the time to meet me. Can you tell me a bit more about yourself? Your background? How did you start cooking?
I think it was very clear from a very young age, 5-6, that cooking was my passion. As a young kid, I would not play with toys but would rather go to my grandma’s kitchen to cook my very own short crust pastry and play with it. In the kitchen, I was in my happy place. Not to mention I also loved eating the food. When I was 12, I spent a week with friends of my parents who owned a restaurant. I also discovered Rungis (editor’s note: largest wholesale food market in the world, located in the suburb of Paris). That week was amazing, and I knew this was what I wanted to do with my life. At 14, I told my mum I wasn’t keen on going to high-school but would rather like to hospitality school. I have been extremely lucky to receive the support of my parents from the very beginnings. It’s not like my family was in this industry at all. We love good food but that’s pretty much it. Plus, think about it, it was 23 years ago. Back then, being a chef wasn’t exactly trendy. Not to mention there were barely any women in the industry. It was more seen as a job you would take because there was nothing else you could do with your life, which wasn’t my case at all. And yet, my parents always supported me.
Were the beginnings tough?
Not really. I started the hospitality school when I was 14. I was the youngest one, the others were more like 17-18 so I grew-up quite quickly. The industry also makes you grow, because it’s a lot of hard work, because you always have to look like a grown-up person and wear a suit … But I immediately felt like it was the right place for me. Suddenly, people were noticing me because I was very good at something. I grew some strong confidence back then.
What was your first job after the hospitality school?
Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris, where I stayed from 2006 to 2009. This is where and when I discovered the world of luxury hotels. I do not come from a very rich family so didn’t know anything about this world. My first idea, when going to the hospitality school, was to open my own little restaurant and serve very simple French food. But suddenly, I was discovering a whole new world and knew this was where I wanted to work.
When you first started as a chef, and like you just said, it wasn’t a trendy job and chefs weren’t exactly tv stars. Yet, 10 years after your debuts, you joined a culinary show, one of the very first of its kind in France. Why did you do it?
To be 100% honest, it wasn’t my idea at all. My step-father had me register for it. At that time, I was participating to many culinary competitions and one day he told me “I keep on seeing this ad for chefs to join season 2 of Top Chef, you should give it a go, you have what it takes to win it”. I had never though on being on tv one day and wasn’t really interested. But he placed a bet that I would never register for the casting, so I did register and won a bottle of champagne. I thought that was it. They would never call me back. But they did. And once I was in, I wanted to be selected. Not because I wanted to actually be part of the show but more out of pride. When they told me that I was actually one of the 14 selected ones, I was so not ready for it! My first reaction was to tell them I needed time to think about it. But there was no time, shooting was set to start 2 weeks later. I called my former chef and friend, Philippe Jourdin, and asked him for guidance. He told me to do it! More precisely, he told me that doing it will have me make a 10-years jump in my career. This is what I needed to hear.
Was he right? Did it actually benefit you career?
Were the beginnings tough?
Not really. I started the hospitality school when I was 14. I was the youngest one, the others were more like 17-18 so I grew-up quite quickly. The industry also makes you grow, because it’s a lot of hard work, because you always have to look like a grown-up person and wear a suit … But I immediately felt like it was the right place for me. Suddenly, people were noticing me because I was very good at something. I grew some strong confidence back then.
What was your first job after the hospitality school?
Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris, where I stayed from 2006 to 2009. This is where and when I discovered the world of luxury hotels. I do not come from a very rich family so didn’t know anything about this world. My first idea, when going to the hospitality school, was to open my own little restaurant and serve very simple French food. But suddenly, I was discovering a whole new world and knew this was where I wanted to work.
When you first started as a chef, and like you just said, it wasn’t a trendy job and chefs weren’t exactly tv stars. Yet, 10 years after your debuts, you joined a culinary show, one of the very first of its kind in France. Why did you do it?
To be 100% honest, it wasn’t my idea at all. My step-father had me register for it. At that time, I was participating to many culinary competitions and one day he told me “I keep on seeing this ad for chefs to join season 2 of Top Chef, you should give it a go, you have what it takes to win it”. I had never though on being on tv one day and wasn’t really interested. But he placed a bet that I would never register for the casting, so I did register and won a bottle of champagne. I thought that was it. They would never call me back. But they did. And once I was in, I wanted to be selected. Not because I wanted to actually be part of the show but more out of pride. When they told me that I was actually one of the 14 selected ones, I was so not ready for it! My first reaction was to tell them I needed time to think about it. But there was no time, shooting was set to start 2 weeks later. I called my former chef and friend, Philippe Jourdin, and asked him for guidance. He told me to do it! More precisely, he told me that doing it will have me make a 10-years jump in my career. This is what I needed to hear.
Was he right? Did it actually benefit you career?
Yes, it did. I mean, I can’t be 100% sure because I have no idea where I would be if I haven’t done this show, but I am pretty sure I wouldn’t be where I am today. It would have probably taken me longer to get there.
But being in that show also had it downsides. You have to prove to people that you are not just a tv chef. People would just see me as the girl on tv without knowing that I already had 14 years of experience in Michelin star restaurants. When I took the job at Prince de Galles in 2013, many people were thinking it was only because I was Top Chef winner. And yes, maybe I wouldn’t have had the offer if I had not won the show. But what made me be good in that job wasn’t my tv experience, but the 14 years spent in a kitchen before that.
And the first Michelin Star came, only a few months after taking that job. Was it a relief?
Yes, it was. It was a way of proving to people that I deserved to be there. Then I thought “ok this one is done, now I can relax a bit and have fun with what I do”.
Does this first Michelin star immediately had you want to go for a second one?
I was already planning to be awarded with two stars even before being awarded with the first one.
The second star definitely makes a big difference. Bookings rise from 25 to 30%, average spending in the restaurant also rise because you attract customers which are more likely to spend a bit more money and last but no least you basically become one of the top 100 French chefs.
Seeing chefs on newspapers, on Tv … is it important for you?
Of course, it is. Like I told you before, being a chef hasn’t always been trendy. Most people would say that chefs were people who couldn’t do anything else with their lives. That’s not true. This job isn’t only about your skills, it is also about your passion. Believe me, it does take a lot of passion to make it work. So yes, I love it that we are now under the spotlights and that we inspire young people.
Speaking of the younger generation, do you think you have a role in passing on your knowledge?
But being in that show also had it downsides. You have to prove to people that you are not just a tv chef. People would just see me as the girl on tv without knowing that I already had 14 years of experience in Michelin star restaurants. When I took the job at Prince de Galles in 2013, many people were thinking it was only because I was Top Chef winner. And yes, maybe I wouldn’t have had the offer if I had not won the show. But what made me be good in that job wasn’t my tv experience, but the 14 years spent in a kitchen before that.
And the first Michelin Star came, only a few months after taking that job. Was it a relief?
Yes, it was. It was a way of proving to people that I deserved to be there. Then I thought “ok this one is done, now I can relax a bit and have fun with what I do”.
Does this first Michelin star immediately had you want to go for a second one?
I was already planning to be awarded with two stars even before being awarded with the first one.
The second star definitely makes a big difference. Bookings rise from 25 to 30%, average spending in the restaurant also rise because you attract customers which are more likely to spend a bit more money and last but no least you basically become one of the top 100 French chefs.
Seeing chefs on newspapers, on Tv … is it important for you?
Of course, it is. Like I told you before, being a chef hasn’t always been trendy. Most people would say that chefs were people who couldn’t do anything else with their lives. That’s not true. This job isn’t only about your skills, it is also about your passion. Believe me, it does take a lot of passion to make it work. So yes, I love it that we are now under the spotlights and that we inspire young people.
Speaking of the younger generation, do you think you have a role in passing on your knowledge?
Absolutely. It is crucial to pass on this knowledge, to go and visit hospitality schools and share with the students. I also always welcome apprentices in my team.
About your team, I heard that after leaving the Prince de Galles earlier this year you are now about to open your very own house. Is that correct?
Yes, it is. It’s coming soon and we are opening La Scène (editor’s note: which was already the name of her restaurant at Prince de Galles) in Paris in October.
I am very much looking forward to it. This is not just about opening my restaurant; it’s really going to be a milestone in my life. You know, after spending all those years in the most high-end hotels, I now have this need to go back to who I am. I want to have my own place, be able to make my own decisions, choices, mistakes also. It all hit me when my last son was born, 2 years ago (editor’s note: Stephanie also has two teenage sons aged 13 and 15).
Of course, I’m a bit scared. But it is not like I have no idea what I am doing. When you work in a luxury hotel, you work with a team of 50 people under you, you have to deal with food costs, HR issues, figures … The only thing is, there’s always another team to help you if needed. Here, I am the boss, so I am pretty much by myself. But I am very lucky to be surrounded with great people. To be honest, so far, I’m more excited than scared. I am someone who think before acting but I am also someone who trust her feelings and my guts were telling me it was time to fly on my own.
Are Michelin stars something you are dreaming of for your own restaurant?
Of course. I just left Prince de Galles with two stars and hope to soon have those two stars in my home. And who knows, maybe some day add a third one.
You are here this week as an ambassador of French gastronomy. Is it important for you to cook abroad and share a bit of French culture?
I’m so proud of being able to do so. Not to mention how interesting it is, on a personal level, to be able to travel like this and discover other culinary cultures. Yesterday morning, I was in the Chinese kitchens of the Shangri-La, that is such a different world from what I know. And I’m spending pretty much all my days in a kitchen. It just absolutely not the same way of doing things. For example, it can take a decade for someone there to move to another position when in France, people start asking you for another position after only 6 months. It’s so important as a chef to expand your horizons.
What about tv. Today would it be a go or a no?
Not a definitive no at all. I wouldn’t do another competition. I don’t know if I am too old for it, but I just don’t feel like I need to compare myself to anybody else anymore. But I wouldn’t mind being one of the judges. What I would be very interested in is a show where I could share my knowledges and/or go and meet other chefs.
About your team, I heard that after leaving the Prince de Galles earlier this year you are now about to open your very own house. Is that correct?
Yes, it is. It’s coming soon and we are opening La Scène (editor’s note: which was already the name of her restaurant at Prince de Galles) in Paris in October.
I am very much looking forward to it. This is not just about opening my restaurant; it’s really going to be a milestone in my life. You know, after spending all those years in the most high-end hotels, I now have this need to go back to who I am. I want to have my own place, be able to make my own decisions, choices, mistakes also. It all hit me when my last son was born, 2 years ago (editor’s note: Stephanie also has two teenage sons aged 13 and 15).
Of course, I’m a bit scared. But it is not like I have no idea what I am doing. When you work in a luxury hotel, you work with a team of 50 people under you, you have to deal with food costs, HR issues, figures … The only thing is, there’s always another team to help you if needed. Here, I am the boss, so I am pretty much by myself. But I am very lucky to be surrounded with great people. To be honest, so far, I’m more excited than scared. I am someone who think before acting but I am also someone who trust her feelings and my guts were telling me it was time to fly on my own.
Are Michelin stars something you are dreaming of for your own restaurant?
Of course. I just left Prince de Galles with two stars and hope to soon have those two stars in my home. And who knows, maybe some day add a third one.
You are here this week as an ambassador of French gastronomy. Is it important for you to cook abroad and share a bit of French culture?
I’m so proud of being able to do so. Not to mention how interesting it is, on a personal level, to be able to travel like this and discover other culinary cultures. Yesterday morning, I was in the Chinese kitchens of the Shangri-La, that is such a different world from what I know. And I’m spending pretty much all my days in a kitchen. It just absolutely not the same way of doing things. For example, it can take a decade for someone there to move to another position when in France, people start asking you for another position after only 6 months. It’s so important as a chef to expand your horizons.
What about tv. Today would it be a go or a no?
Not a definitive no at all. I wouldn’t do another competition. I don’t know if I am too old for it, but I just don’t feel like I need to compare myself to anybody else anymore. But I wouldn’t mind being one of the judges. What I would be very interested in is a show where I could share my knowledges and/or go and meet other chefs.
