Hong Kong Madame - English

Chef Cary Docherty returns to Lobster Bar and Grill at Island Shangri-La and we’re here for it

The five-star property continues its successful transformation into one of the city’s hotspots

June 18th 2024


Chef Cary Docherty returns to Lobster Bar and Grill at Island Shangri-La and we’re here for it
Words by Aude Camus
 
Island Shangri-La has had a prolific past few months, being the first Shangri-La Group property to introduce the brand’s new Yun Wellness global concept, renovating its pool deck, opening Hokkien eatery Ming Pavilion, and revolutionising family-friendly luxury with a whimsical and thoughtfully designed family floor. This breath of fresh air has rejuvenated the five-star property, a towering presence above Pacific Place since 1991.
 
Part of this transformation includes the return of Chef Cary Docherty. His first stint at the hotel from 2020 to 2022 was met with acclaim, and now, after a brief hiatus, he’s back to infuse the classic Lobster Bar and Grill with his fresh flair.
 
I first tried Chef Cary’s cuisine at the now-closed Gough’s on Gough, where the Canadian chef made his mark upon arriving in Hong Kong from the UK in 2018. Unfortunately, I missed his last tenure at Lobster Bar and Grill, but I was eager to experience his culinary touch this time around.

Chef Cary Docherty returns to Lobster Bar and Grill at Island Shangri-La and we’re here for it
The Lobster Bar and Grill’s dining room is delightfully old-school, with a touch of kitsch that works - think lacquered wood furniture, aquariums, and Rococo-inspired wallpaper. It’s the epitome of a five-star hotel bar, with a hint of a gentleman’s club, and I’m here for it.
 
In such a setting, you cannot expect boundary-breaking dishes, yet Chef Cary’s fresh take on elevated brasserie fare pleasantly contrasts with the traditional ambiance.
 

Chef Cary Docherty returns to Lobster Bar and Grill at Island Shangri-La and we’re here for it
Our spread of starters set the tone for the evening: Hong Kong rarebit - an oyster sauce twist on the classic Welsh rarebit, a simple yet utterly pleasing whole steamed artichoke with garlic mayonnaise, beetroot and hazelnut dip topped with fried kale, freshly shucked oysters, and a perfectly executed beef tartare made with Polmard beef (for those in the know). Rather than upending tradition, Chef Cary refines old favorites with a special touch.
 
The chef’s salad stood out - incredibly tasty and a perfect embodiment of his cuisine. A wedge salad with a twist: dried shiitake mushrooms replacing the traditional bacon bites, and maple-glazed pecans, a nod to Chef Cary’s Canadian roots, adding a gourmet layer in place of crunchy toasted walnuts.
 
The lobster bisque was rich and indulgent, a classic done to perfection, soothing both tummy and mind.

Chef Cary Docherty returns to Lobster Bar and Grill at Island Shangri-La and we’re here for it
Lobster Bar & Grill lives up to its name with a choice of meat and seafood for mains. I indulged in the Beef Wellington, and after tasting Chef Cary’s version – the meat cooked to medium rare perfection and the puff pastry deliciously flaky and buttery – I don’t think I can ever go back. Even the fresh and fleshy grilled langoustines couldn’t compete with such a treat, and I’m usually a seafood-over-meat kind of girl. If you order a side, make it the mashed potatoes. Try guessing the butter-to-potato ratio - I’d say it’s 70/30.
 
In other news, the restaurant has also launched two new menus. The gourmet burgers menu is calling my name, and I’m already debating between Chef Cary’s signature panko-crusted Alaskan pollock burger or the sweetbread creation for my next visit. There’s also a Sunday roast menu which I’ve heard comes with a Bloody Mary Trolley. So if you’re wondering, yes I’ll be back.
 

 
Lobster Bar and Grill
www.shangri-la.com/hongkong/islandshangrila/dining/restaurants/lobster-bar-grill/
Level 6, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, Hong Kong
 


 
This article is based on a complimentary media dinner hosted by Lobster Bar and Grill. No money has been paid for publishing this write-up which is entirely based on the genuine opinion of its author. 






 


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