by Aude Camus
In the ever-changing landscape of Hong Kong's dining scene, establishments boasting nearly a century of existence are a rare breed. Jimmy’s Kitchen, set to celebrate its centenary in 2028, nearly missed this milestone amidst the tumult of the pandemic-induced closures. But as they say, elders possess a resilience forged through the trials of time. From serving the British navy to enduring the upheaval of the Japanese occupation and witnessing the city's handover, Jimmy’s Kitchen stands as a testament to endurance and evolution.
Now here’s a question for you: how many of you were familiar with the restaurant prior to reading this article? I confess, when whispers of Jimmy’s Kitchen's revival began to circulate within the Hong Kong foodie community, it was my first encounter with the name. A few reads later, I found myself immersed in its rich legacy. But amidst the weight of tradition, I wondered: would the experience live up to the hype?
My expectations were coloured by tales of its past glory—a cherished haunt of the US Asiatic Squadron and British Navy—and images of a bygone era. I was envisioning a gentleman club-like atmosphere. So you can imagine my surprise when I walked into the casual dining lounge, passing by a crudo bar en route to a contemporary, vast dining room. A marriage of white and grey marble, oak, and American walnut, punctuated by bold, abstract upholstery, pays homage to Jimmy’s storied past while embracing a distinctly modern sensibility.
In the ever-changing landscape of Hong Kong's dining scene, establishments boasting nearly a century of existence are a rare breed. Jimmy’s Kitchen, set to celebrate its centenary in 2028, nearly missed this milestone amidst the tumult of the pandemic-induced closures. But as they say, elders possess a resilience forged through the trials of time. From serving the British navy to enduring the upheaval of the Japanese occupation and witnessing the city's handover, Jimmy’s Kitchen stands as a testament to endurance and evolution.
Now here’s a question for you: how many of you were familiar with the restaurant prior to reading this article? I confess, when whispers of Jimmy’s Kitchen's revival began to circulate within the Hong Kong foodie community, it was my first encounter with the name. A few reads later, I found myself immersed in its rich legacy. But amidst the weight of tradition, I wondered: would the experience live up to the hype?
My expectations were coloured by tales of its past glory—a cherished haunt of the US Asiatic Squadron and British Navy—and images of a bygone era. I was envisioning a gentleman club-like atmosphere. So you can imagine my surprise when I walked into the casual dining lounge, passing by a crudo bar en route to a contemporary, vast dining room. A marriage of white and grey marble, oak, and American walnut, punctuated by bold, abstract upholstery, pays homage to Jimmy’s storied past while embracing a distinctly modern sensibility.
As for the food, I wasn’t expecting anything specific – except probably not a crudo bar. Actually, I anticipated an elevated rendition of Hong Kong-style Western fare, affectionately known as ‘soy sauce Western cuisine’.
Yet, Jimmy’s classics are more on the continental end of the spectrum, in a delightfully outdated way. From a Dover sole, impeccably prepared meunière-style, to a decadent chicken supreme ‘Kiev’, oozing with garlic butter atop a bed of creamy mash, these dishes exuded a nostalgic charm that transcended trends.
But in 2024, Executive Chef Russell Doctrove introduces a subtle evolution, infusing the menu with lighter fare. Personal favourites include the zesty king crab leg draped in citrus hollandaise, the delicate bluefin tuna crudo atop smoked eggplant, and the tangy pickled herring fillet.
But in 2024, Executive Chef Russell Doctrove introduces a subtle evolution, infusing the menu with lighter fare. Personal favourites include the zesty king crab leg draped in citrus hollandaise, the delicate bluefin tuna crudo atop smoked eggplant, and the tangy pickled herring fillet.
The verdict? The new Jimmy’s Kitchen strikes a delicate balance between old-world charm and contemporary flair, appealing to both those who grew up visiting the restaurant and newcomers like me.
Jimmy’s Kitchen
www.jimmys.com
M/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central
Jimmy’s Kitchen
www.jimmys.com
M/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central
This article is based on a complimentary media tasting hosted by Jimmy’s Kitchen. No money has been paid for publishing this write-up which is entirely based on the genuine opinion of its author.
