Oct 2023 edit: this restaurant has now closed its doors permanently
by Aude
The rumor has it that newly opened H Queen’s is THE cultural and gastronomic decision of Hong Kong. A rumor that I definitely needed to double-check! And you know me, of course I chose to check the gastronomic part of it first. May I request the pleasure of having you for dinner with me at ÉCRITURE ?
by Aude
The rumor has it that newly opened H Queen’s is THE cultural and gastronomic decision of Hong Kong. A rumor that I definitely needed to double-check! And you know me, of course I chose to check the gastronomic part of it first. May I request the pleasure of having you for dinner with me at ÉCRITURE ?
ÉCRITURE … quite an intriguing name. The restaurant is actually build on the principles of Western craftsmanship in harmony with Eastern philosophies, inviting you on a sensory and gastronomic voyage.
As soon as you step off the elevator, the sensory journey can start. Look at that amazing and massive 4.5 m high bookshelf featuring art pieces and limited edition art books … It almost feels like entering someone’s home. And now please follow me into the dining room with its amazing view on the surrounding buildings, its beautiful open kitchen (I got that thing with open kitchens) and its interior that looks like no other, mixing the contrasts to create harmony.
ÉCRITURE is also the name of a series of painting by Korean artist Park Seo-Bo and one of the piece from this series hang in the private dining room.
East meets West at its best!
Photo credit @hongkongmadame
The menu also is a beautiful mix of the best from West and the best from East, using the finest ingredients from France and Japan. I won’t be telling you too much as this menu is truly an experience that I don’t wanna spoil. Anyway the menu evolves constantly and what we’ll be eating tonight is not the same at what they’ll be eating next week. The menu is written like a beautiful story and you’ll love having your waiter guide you through the super yummy 7 chapters of the tasting menu. What I loved the most about this menu? Being surprised with absolutely each and every dish! Not gonna say too much but on my side I was treated to an amazing Hokkaido Scallop and Black Truffles in a crispy beignet and a surprising Kinki fish served in 3 delicious ways.
Photo credit @hongkongmadame
Ok, there’s one surprise I’m gonna spoil … sorry about that but the half-Breton in me just absolutely loved to be treated to Kouign-Aman (a super buttery cake, originated from Brittany – West of France) after dessert. Yes yes, they do serve a buttery cake (with whipped cream) after dessert. Just in case you were afraid fine dining diner means small portions, be reassured …
After such as feast, I definitely needed to seat a few minutes with Chef Maxime Gilbert and ask him a few foodie questions (any excuse to stay a little longer in this beautiful place and enjoy a few more mignardises).
Hi Maxime! So nice to meet you!
Would love to know a little more about you. Where were you before and how did you become Executive Chef here at ÉCRITURE?
I’m French obviously! I started my career in the USA and then joined the team at the Meurice Paris. I spend 5 years there, growing from commis chef to sous chef and encountering my mentor Yannick Alleno.
Following a stint at Two Michelin-starred La Reserve de Beaulieu on France’s Cote d’Azure, I went to work with Alleno at La Grande Francaise by Yannick Alleno at the Hotel Royal Mansour in Marrakesh, Morocco. And in 2011, I was so lucky that Yannick Alleno gave me the opportunity to open STAY by Yannick Alleno at Shangri-La Beijing. I then worked as Chef de Cuisine at Amber from 2013 to 2016 when I started working on the opening of ÉCRITURE.
I don’t wanna say too much about it as I want the readers to be surprised (just like I was) but dining at ÉCRITURE is like going through the different chapters of a beautiful stories. How have you come to this idea?
I basically designed the experience and the menu based on my own feelings. What is the kind of experience I’d like to have in a restaurant and which kind of food would I love to eat?
Sweet or Savoury?
Savoury for sure! I love nothing more than bread.
Your fav dish?
Bread, salted butter and ham … bam!
Or maybe my mother’s Boeuf Bourguignon.
A dish that you hate?
I hate it when things are cooked with the wrong intentions. I love nothing more than something simple but cooked with a lot of love.
Someone you’ll be dreaming of cooking for?
That’s hard! So many people I’d love to cook for … but maybe Alain Passard (editor’s note: French Chef and owner of Three-Michelin-Star restaurant L’Arpege in Paris)
ÉCRITURE
26/F H Queens, 80 Queens Road – Central
